Beauty & Culture, industry Jacques Besner Beauty & Culture, industry Jacques Besner

My Multi-Level Pyramid Problem

Nothing makes me happier as a teacher than seeing my students become successful in the field I introduced them to. And when a former student reaches out, I am always happy to reconnect, catch up, and hear where life has taken them.

Recently, a former student who has built a long-standing career for herself in the beauty world reached out, telling me she had something extremely exciting to share.

Nothing makes me happier as a teacher than seeing my students become successful in the field I introduced them to. And when a former student reaches out, I am always happy to reconnect, catch up, and hear where life has taken them.

Recently, a former student who has built a long-standing career for herself in the beauty world reached out, telling me she had something extremely exciting to share.

As the teacher who first introduced her to makeup, naturally I became excited. Perhaps she wanted to collaborate on an educational project. Maybe she wanted me to travel somewhere as a guest speaker. Within a few minutes, apparently I had already mentally accepted my Oscar.

The next morning, I answered her message, thanked her for reaching out, and asked what this exciting news was all about.

The exchange began innocuously enough: a few how-are-you’s, some catching up. Then she pivoted and asked whether I had heard of a beauty brand called Riman.

I had not.

She began telling me how much she loved the products, the colours and textures, how South Korean beauty continues to expand globally, and how well she had been doing financially selling the line. The company, she explained, was interested in expanding into my region, which naturally made her think of me.

As she was writing, I began researching the company myself.

And looking for the catch.

The product line appeared relatively straightforward, positioned at a fairly premium price point and frequently offered in bundled groupings. More importantly, the company operates through a multi-level marketing structure in which sellers can earn commissions on product sales and, potentially, through the recruitment and sales activity of other representatives.

This is where my heart sank.

I have always been deeply uncomfortable with this type of business model.

Not because selling products is inherently distasteful. I have worked in beauty for more than three decades. Selling, recommending and introducing products is part of the industry, I know the game well.

What troubles me is what happens when the people around you slowly begin to look less like friends, relatives, colleagues or former teachers—and more like potential customers.

Family. Friends. Lovers. Coworkers.

Everyone becomes a prospect.

And then we wonder why certain family members stop getting invited to events.

Multi-level marketing has existed in beauty for decades. Brands such as Mary Kay, Avon and Arbonne have all used variations of direct-selling or representative-based business models, and these structures have long generated debate about recruitment, market saturation, income potential and the pressure placed on personal networks.

I have been approached several times over the years to represent or sell companies operating this way. I have also watched friends invest substantial amounts of money into products that eventually sat untouched on shelves—unsold, unwanted, unloved and unnecessary.

What bothers me most, however, is the recruitment aspect.

The promise is often not simply that you can make money selling a product. The appeal becomes that you can bring other sellers into the structure and potentially benefit financially from their activity as well.

And that changes the nature of the interaction.

What bothered me about hearing from my former student was not simply being offered a beauty product. PR representatives offer me products regularly; that is part of my professional life.

What bothered me was realizing that a relationship I associated with mentorship, history and genuine affection had become the doorway to a commercial opportunity.

Perhaps she sincerely thought of me because she believed I would be good at it. I am willing to give her that generosity.

But that is also exactly what troubles me about this type of business model: it encourages people to look at their relationships and see potential markets.

I cannot begin to describe how strange it felt to have a former student approach me with an opportunity from which she might ultimately benefit financially, knowing that it was my own knowledge, patience and teaching that had helped introduce her to this industry in the first place.

The gall. The gumption.

And, admittedly, the irony.

I understand the temptation. We live in a world where everyone is trying to do too much yesterday, increase their revenue, maximize their time and create additional streams of income.

I am trying to do exactly the same thing.

But there must be ways to generate revenue without cannibalizing our social circles and turning every person we know into a potential client.

In the end, I politely declined.

I told her that I was happy she had found something that worked for her, but that I was not interested in investing in another beauty brand.

Right now, I need to invest in myself.

And since we were apparently discussing professional opportunities, I asked whether she might be willing to write a testimonial about her experience studying with me.

She very kindly said yes.

At the time of writing, I am still waiting.

Perhaps there is a lesson in that too.

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Blend IS Your Friend!

Some people preach contour. Others still worship pigment. But here in this chapel of beauty, I say unto thee:
Blend, for it is your friend!

Everywhere I go — in person or online — I see the haunting signs of unblended makeup, and it takes every ounce of my being not to cry out. Nothing ruins a makeup look faster than a harsh edge, an unsoftened blush, or a highlight that sits loud and loudly on the face.

Why this simple technique elevates every makeup look

Some people preach contour. Others still worship pigment. But here in this chapel of beauty, I say unto thee:
Blend, for it is your friend!

Everywhere I go — in person or online — I see the haunting signs of unblended makeup, and it takes every ounce of my being not to cry out. Nothing ruins a makeup look faster than a harsh edge, an unsoftened blush, or a highlight that sits loud and loudly on the face.

Yes, makeup has many components: placement, intensity, color... but one technique reigns supreme — blending.

I admit, we all start somewhere. In my beginner days, I too left my contour clinging for dear life or my blush stopping like a speed bump. But blending? Blending is the skill that separates a face from a moment.

What Is Blending, Really?

Blending is the art of transition — softening edges, merging tones, and eliminating harsh lines to present a polished, seamless finish.

It’s an essential technique to master for:

  • Eyeshadow transitions

  • Contouring and highlighting

  • Blush placement

  • Lip definition and ombré effects

Blending is not about rubbing or scrubbing. The more you rub, the more you remove product and irritate the skin. Blending is about tapping, smudging, and soft brushing with intention and grace.

The Tools of the Trade

🖌️ Fluffy Brushes

The softer the bristles, the better the blend. Ideal for powders (eyeshadow, blush, contour), these brushes should be used lightly at the tip in circular or mini figure-8 motions until the desired softening is achieved.

🧽 Sponges vs. Fingers

Perfect for liquids and creams.

  • Fingers: tap with alternating fingers to soften edges.

  • Sponges: always pat — never rub. Rubbing lifts and erases instead of diffusing.

💄 Powder vs. Cream

  • Powders: Blend best with fluffy, clean brushes.

  • Creams: Fingers for placement, then a damp sponge to tap away fingerprints or smooth edges.

Pro Tip: Be gentle. Pressure removes pigment. You’re tickling the face, not scrubbing a stovetop.

The Unblended Truth

As an educator, here are the most common blending blunders I see:

  • Over-blending
    Your contour isn’t soup. It needs structure. Blend edges, not the entire shape.

  • Harsh Lines
    Some pigments cling. Without transition shades or clean brushes, they’re nearly impossible to blur.

  • Patchiness
    Usually caused by creams not being properly set before powder application — resulting in a blotchy, uneven finish.

  • One Brush Fits All
    Using the same brush for everything = chaos. Product buildup means unwanted tones bleeding into every step.

👏 Simple Solutions:

  • Use transition shades (eyes, cheeks, lips) to help fade pigment without erasing.

  • Always have a clean brush for blending — pigment-free is key.

  • Blend in light layers. Don’t wait too long — set makeup is harder to soften.

  • Apply light pressure and take your time. Fast is not fabulous.

Blend in Life as in Makeup

Blending isn’t just a technique — it’s a philosophy.
It creates harmony across the face. Whether you’re painting a drag canvas, perfecting an editorial look, or going bare-faced and fresh — blending enhances balance, lets bold choices breathe, and helps all elements feel intentional.

Be patient with yourself. Blending takes time. Practice when it’s not make-or-break.
Like any art, mastery begins with mistakes.

“A sharp line can slice — but a blended line seduces.”

Final Blending Strokes

You don’t need a thousand products — you need to master the gesture.

It’s not about the price tag. It’s about the movement — the intention — the awareness of pressure and placement that makes makeup melt into the skin like poetry.

So the next time you reach for your brush, ask yourself:
Is it clean? Is my hand light? Am I ready to finesse instead of force?

Then blend. Gently. Like you mean it.

Because patchy makeup is a choice —
and I truly hope you didn’t read all the way to the end just to choose chaos.

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