Blemish Myth-Busters & Breakthroughs

Editor’s Note:
This piece isn’t written from expertise alone, but from lived experience. It’s a reflection on what it means to carry blemishes — on the skin and in the mind — and on the slow, patient work of learning how to care for both.

Clear Skin is Always In

One of the most prized attributes in beauty is skin that is clear, radiant, and even in color.

We are constantly surrounded by images of impeccable complexions, quietly reminding us of the cultural value placed on “perfect” skin. For anyone who has lived with acne or recurring breakouts, this is an inescapable reality — one that’s hard to ignore.

There is a stigma attached to blemish-prone skin, as though it were unclean or neglected. Otherwise, why would it show whiteheads, blackheads, pustules, and inflammation on its surface?

Many people still believe acne is merely a passing phase of adolescence, not realizing that adult acne is a real and persistent condition that can extend well beyond puberty.

How Acne Makes You Feel

Having acne has always been a daily reality for me — managing my skin with the same intensity that bodybuilders apply to training, diet, and repetition.

I’ve tried every acne-fighting ingredient, every dietary tip, supplement, and treatment in the hope of making this persistent inflammation disappear for good.

Here’s what I know to be true after years of experience:

Acne doesn’t just affect your skin — it can quietly reshape how you see yourself. One single blemish can dominate my entire reflection. When I look in the mirror, it feels as though it’s leaping forward, demanding all of my attention. It becomes the only thing I see.

I’m aware this perception is distorted. While I focus on inflammation and redness, others may be noticing my eyes, my skin’s natural glow, or the way I move through the world. But in that moment, all I see is the redness — the persona non grata on my face that must exit as soon as possible to restore my peace of mind.

Acne, breakouts, and inflammation can make you feel deeply self-conscious and less attractive. For some, it becomes a true confidence killer. I’ve canceled events and social gatherings simply because I couldn’t bear to look at myself in the mirror — and didn’t want anyone else to look at me either.

Time and Discoloration

Blemishes can rise and flare quickly, but they often take much longer to leave. As the inflammation subsides and the surface flattens, what remains is often a darkened mark — a reminder that can linger far longer than the breakout itself.

When I was younger, I could rely on discoloration fading within a month. Now, it can take anywhere from 60 to 100 days, and some marks remain visible for six to nine months.

Regeneration cycles slow with age — that’s simply biology. I accept it. I just don’t always love what it means for my skin.

Scars and Indentations

Acne can also lead to long-term scarring — deep indentations where layers of the epidermis have been damaged and heal unevenly.

These scars change how light moves across the face. The skin can lose radiance, feel dry, and appear shadowed and uneven. Makeup becomes more complex, as textured skin doesn’t naturally reflect luminosity. Instead of glow, the surface can feel flat, matte, and less alive.

What you put in your body, ends up on your face; choose wisely!

 What Breakouts Are Signaling from Inside

Whenever I let my diet drift — more processed foods, more sugar, high carbohyrates, and heavy dairy — my skin responds immediately. Loudly.

Once I remove those triggers, I see less inflammation and a more even complexion. It’s a clear reminder that what we eat and how we process it is reflected through the skin.

If the liver is under strain, the skin often becomes one of the first visible messengers.

Let’s Bust the Biggest Myth

Most people I meet who struggle with acne have one thing in common: they avoid moisturizing.

Many have oily skin and fear that hydration will make it worse — especially if they’re already using topical treatments designed to dry out inflammation.

What actually happens is the opposite.

When the skin becomes dehydrated, the sebaceous glands respond by producing even more oil to protect the surface. That excess sebum spreads across the skin, increasing congestion and the likelihood of breakouts.

The skin needs moisture. Proper hydration helps maintain the skin’s natural moisturizing factors and, over time, encourages the sebaceous glands to produce less oil, not more.

For anyone dealing with acne, finding a non-comedogenic moisturizer that supports the skin barrier is one of the most important steps you can take.

One of my long-standing, no-nonsense favorites is CeraVe’s Moisturizing Lotion for Dry and Normal Skin — fragrance-free, lightweight, affordable, and rich in ceramides. It absorbs quickly, doesn’t feel greasy, and is safe for both face and body.

The Usual Blemish-Fighting Ingredients

For years, I relied on the classics: salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.

Salicylic acid penetrates deep into the pores to clear debris, while benzoyl peroxide helps reduce bacteria and dry out active blemishes.

Both are effective — and both can be harsh.

The most common mistake among acne sufferers is overuse. Instead of healing the skin, these ingredients can weaken the barrier and increase sensitivity.

My own skin eventually began to reject them. What once worked beautifully started causing irritation and inflammation, forcing me to step away.

The same happened with retinol — often considered the gold standard for anti-aging and acne. It accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen, and can dramatically improve clarity and texture.

But retinol is powerful. It requires moderation — usually no more than two to three nights per week — and isn’t well tolerated by skin prone to rosacea or sensitivity.

After nearly six years of luminous results, my skin began to resist it too. That one was hard to let go.

My Newest Allies in Blemish Control

Recently, I discovered azelaic acid — an ingredient that fights inflammation and redness while remaining gentle enough for sensitive skin. It also supports collagen production, helping the skin repair itself where blemishes have appeared.

If you’re curious, I’ve shared detailed reviews of the azelaic acid products I find both effective and cost-conscious. Read the previous blog, here.

When I saw that The Ordinary had launched two new blemish-focused products that didn’t rely on salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or retinol, I was immediately intrigued.

I tested both — and they delivered.

Balancing & Clarifying Serum

This formula uses a derivative of azelaic acid called Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, known for calming inflammation and regulating oil production.

What makes this serum unique is its regulatory approach to acne. Instead of aggressively drying the skin, it works by biologically balancing oil production (Carnitine, Sarcosine), calming inflammation and discoloration (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Acetyl Glucosamine), and strengthening the skin’s natural defense systems (Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Ectoin, Adenosine). This makes it particularly well-suited for sensitive, adult, or chronically acne-prone skin that needs long-term stability rather than short-term correction.

An amazing serum for anyone suffering from adult acne.

Sulfur 10% Powder-to-Cream Concentrate

This product takes a more direct, treatment-focused approach.

This sulfur-based concentrate clears clogged pores and reduces acne-causing bacteria at the surface, while Levocarnitine helps regulate oil production within the pore itself. Niacinamide balances this intensity by calming inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, and improving post-acne tone. Together, they create a dual-action system designed for active breakouts and congested skin rather than long-term, whole-face regulation.

This powder calms inflammation instantly!

Finding Balance Again

Between these newer launches and my ongoing work with azelaic acid, I’ve finally found a way to balance my complexion while keeping congestion under control.

What’s become crystal clear to me is this:

Fighting breakouts is as much about what we put into our bodies as what we put onto our skin.

My Skin’s Mid-Life Crisis

A personal reflection on inflammation, resilience, and finally finding what works.

Early Beginnings: A Routine Born from Necessity

I started a skincare routine at age 11—not because I loved self-care or found joy in slathering on creams, but out of necessity.

I began showing signs of inflammation early on. Minor breakouts quickly escalated into full-blown teenage acne, leaving behind scarring across the central zone of my face—eyes, cheeks, and nose. The redness, the eruptions… they troubled me deeply and made me incredibly self-conscious. Even now, there are still days I find it hard to look at myself in the mirror.

Thankfully, my mom took notice and gently introduced me to higher-end skincare. My first regimen came from Clinique: a diagnostic-based 3-step routine featuring a weird amber-olive soap I loathed, a toner that reeked of alcohol, and a yellow cream whose smell and texture I hated even more.

At first, the habit didn’t stick. I wasn’t yet initiated into the true power of skincare and its potential to transform the skin.

Trial, Error & Adult Acne

In my teen years, I turned to salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. They targeted the blemishes well—but often left my skin dry, discolored, and irritated. As I entered adulthood, the acne didn’t stop. My skin remained reactive and inflamed, and I cycled through endless routines: oil-free moisturizers, acne lotions, gels, hydrators, calming creams.

As a lifelong makeup wearer (and artist), I always understood the importance of giving my skin days off—to let it heal and breathe.

But between my sensitive skin, its inflammatory nature, and consistent breakouts, adult acne became my norm. And more recently, I began developing signs of rosacea.

Retinol, Lasers & Lockdowns

In my early 40s, I discovered retinol—a vitamin A derivative with incredible benefits for collagen production, acne management, and skin renewal. For a while, alternating between retinol and salicylic acid helped me keep things in check.

I even dabbled in laser treatments, which I highly recommend. If you're curious, I can refer you to Access Medica in Kirkland, QC—their laser specialist is kind, knowledgeable, and incredibly gentle. They helped me firm, smooth, and brighten my skin.

Oddly enough, my skin peaked during the pandemic lockdowns. Minimal exposure to pollution and stress made it glow like never before. It was glass-like—a finish I’d never seen on my own face.

The Breakdown

But the last few years brought trauma: a surgery, two lay-offs, and the heartbreaking closure of the programs I taught for nearly two decades.

My skin spiraled. It became red, inflamed, dull, and textured. My stress manifested through massive breakouts—Godzilla-sized pimples that wouldn’t heal. None of my holy grail products worked anymore. For a full year, I battled my skin with almost no relief.

Makeup could only do so much. You can conceal discoloration, but texture never lies. Covering raised, swollen blemishes? Nearly impossible.

The Azelaic Acid Revelation

Seven weeks ago, desperate, I typed my condition into AI and asked for recommendations for acne-rosacea-prone skin. The answer? Azelaic Acid—an ingredient I hadn’t explored yet.

Azelaic Acid is a wheat-based compound known for targeting inflammation, improving discoloration, boosting collagen, and calming reactive skin. It’s not mainstream, but it should be.

What I’m Using

If you’re curious about trying Azelaic Acid yourself, here are two products I’ve been experimenting with and would personally recommend:

• The INKEY List Redness Relief Solution (10% Azelaic Acid) – Affordable, lightweight, and great for reducing inflammation and redness. It’s a gentle introduction to the ingredient.

• The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% – A no-fuss formulation that delivers results. A bit creamier in texture, it’s effective for brightening and targeting texture.

Supporting Skin from Within

I also started revamping my diet:
✔ More berries, avocados, kale, carrots, nuts, and eggs
✔ Daily omega-3 sources
✔ Less sugar, less processed food
✔ Home-cooked meals, fresh dressings, and breads I bake myself

I added a daily yoga practice, which has helped both my physical and mental health. And thanks to a friend I’ve grown quite fond of, I started drinking saline water to improve hydration and electrolytes.

Light at the End of the Pore

These changes have made a remarkable difference in how I feel—mentally, emotionally, and physically. And slowly, they’ve begun to reflect in my skin.

Is that vain? Probably. But let’s be honest—we live in a society where looks matter, and there’s stigma attached to acne. So yes, seeing my glow return feels like a blessing.

And yes, Azelaic Acid caused a purge at first—those deep imperfections surfaced fast. But they diminished in size daily, and the scarring faded faster than I expected. After nearly 8 weeks, my skin is calming, the redness is fading, and the texture is smoothing out.

My skin is not yet flawless—and it may never be. At my age, discolorations take longer to fade. But each day, I wake up a little more comfortable in my own skin. And for that, I’m grateful.

Until then? There’s always concealer. 🖤

Please Note

Always patch test on your inner wrist to see how your skin reacts prior to using. As always, if any irritation or inflammation occurs, please consult a skincare professional.